Arid
DOI10.1080/00404969.2016.1211436
Ajrakh: From Caste Dress to Catwalk
Edwards, Eiluned Mair
通讯作者Edwards, EM (corresponding author), Nottingham Trent Univ, Global Cultures Text & Dress, Nottingham, England.
来源期刊TEXTILE HISTORY
ISSN0040-4969
EISSN1743-2952
出版年2016
卷号47期号:2页码:146-170
英文摘要Ajrakh is a double-sided, block-printed textile worn as caste dress by cattle herders in the desert regions of Kachchh and Thar in north-west India and Sindh in Pakistan, where it is made by Khatri artisans. Readily identified by its distinctive combination of geometric and floral designs, traditional ajrakh is notably printed on both sides of the cloth and is dyed with indigo and madder. In the past forty years ajrakh has not only been transformed from a rustic block print into a popular fashion fabric, it has also become the signature cloth of the Khatri communities at Dhamadka and Ajrakhpur in Kachchh and is their most successful product. This article analyses the interventions that led to the successful adaptation of ajrakh as a regional product to a modern design milieu. It discusses early government initiatives that resulted in the introduction of artisan-designer collaborations in the 1970s, as well as later design developments that were led by Indian and foreign entrepreneurs. It traces the continuing trajectory of ajrakh from rural western India to the catwalks of New Delhi, Mumbai and beyond. Case studies of three fashion companies illuminate the factors that have influenced the commercial ascent of ajrakh. This textile is also considered in respect of recent initiatives to organise and protect the craft sector by the Government of India and by non-governmental organisations. In a final section, the article appraises the value of ajrakh as both a successful commodity and a cultural asset.
类型Article
语种英语
开放获取类型Green Accepted
收录类别AHCI
WOS记录号WOS:000383976900002
WOS类目Humanities, Multidisciplinary
WOS研究方向Arts & Humanities - Other Topics
资源类型期刊论文
条目标识符http://119.78.100.177/qdio/handle/2XILL650/361633
作者单位[Edwards, Eiluned Mair] Nottingham Trent Univ, Global Cultures Text & Dress, Nottingham, England
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Edwards, Eiluned Mair. Ajrakh: From Caste Dress to Catwalk[J],2016,47(2):146-170.
APA Edwards, Eiluned Mair.(2016).Ajrakh: From Caste Dress to Catwalk.TEXTILE HISTORY,47(2),146-170.
MLA Edwards, Eiluned Mair."Ajrakh: From Caste Dress to Catwalk".TEXTILE HISTORY 47.2(2016):146-170.
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